1991 BMW 318is. It's a money pit but I bought it knowing that. I have to replace the rear subframe bushings, planned on doing it this weekend but I got sent only one of the parts... Fun car, even with such a small engine for a BMW.
Not sure where you're getting "watt" in "Power Supply [Unit]," "watt" is a measurement of energy determined by multiplying volts*amperes.
I've had two failures: Cheap no-name 350w PSU that I knew was dying but didn't replace fast enough. I bought it in like 2003 bundled with a case for $50 and it lasted about 3 years. This resulted in damage to my motherboard which killed the GeForce FX5900XT I had at the time, and also killed the Riva TNT2 I used as a temporary replacement card after replacing the power supply. All other components were left intact. My guess for failure: likely capacitor failure, due to the slow death I failed to address. Antec TruePower-II 430w that coincidentally died the same day I received a replacement Antec TruePower Trio 550w that I now use. No damage, probably because it wasn't cheap and therefore had overvoltage/overcurrent protection. My guess for failure: I had it loaded pretty heavily and wasn't being careful, so I may have overdrawn this supply.
I haven't played too much of it, but Project Reality mod for Battlefield 2 you had to be reeeally patient. Depending on everything, you would only have 1-2 snipers per team (I think I remember a queue for the spot). I played one time where I was basically not found the entire time.
Looking at the P6T BIOS update changes, there appear to be 3 updates that address issues with memory. So if it hasn't been resolved, you might want to try updating to the most recent BIOS revision.
@HitmanAgent47: PNG 24-bit is lossless for most use (obviously you lose detail with stuff like 48-bit RAW, but for game screenshots it's perfectly fine). PNG 8-bit is color lossy (like GIF, it's 8 bit color so limited to 256 colors) but won't block artifact like JPEG.
@Testing: Whoops, forgot this thread. The answer is yes, pretty much every device is compatible with everything back to 802.11b (Wireless B), so an N device supports B and G as well.
This functionality can typically be shut off if you want, but it's on by default in every consumer device that features it.
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