That is a difficult choice, it being my favorite game. I probably remember Tick Tock Clock most fondly, but the first snow area (I can't remember what it is called) is also really great.
Oooh. Tough one. I originally wanted to say Big Boo's Haunt because it had that creepy merry-go-round in the basement, but I think on further review I also have to go with Hazy Maze Cave. Mostly because that level has a lot of variety. There's the hill with the rolling boulders and the giant bottomless pit. There's the actual Hazy Maze. There's the area with the elevator lifts. There's the secret area where you get the metal cap. There's the underwater lake with Dorrie the plesiosaur (which, as you approach the lake, the music changes form the chill "Mario Underground theme" [which is awesome in itself] to that creepier, mysterious music). Even how you get to the level is cool - jumping into the pool of liquid metal...or oil - whatever it is.
To me Bob-omb Battlefield will always be the most memorable level of Super Mario 64. It had a great boss, that mother fucking Chain Chomp, wing hat, koopa racing, canons, all that shit.
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